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Page 4 of 9
Testing Platform Configuration and
Installation
Our test bed consists of a Cooler Master sponsored CM-Stacker full tower case in which we will install and modify
the installation as well as the case, as an enthusiast's point of view. In doing
this we are going to make a slight modification to the installation
procedures.

Pass-thru Connector Case Modification
We are going to change up the installation and drill out some
holes to allow our pass-thru connectors to pass directly thru the chassis of the
Cooler Master Stacker case. We will not use the bracket, so essentially we will
only use the pass-thru tubes and secure them to our chassis.

Swiftech 3/8" I/D pass-thru connector
assembly
The MCB-PT "Pass-thru" is meant to be installed in a PCI slot
bracket and the pass-thru tubes would install over a PCI slot and allow the tube
circuit to be complete. However in our installation we are going to modify this
to pass directly through our case. So the first thing we are going to do is
configure and modify the radiator - pass -thru installation.

PCI Pass-thru kit:
- Tubes dimensions: 0.375" OD x 0.320" ID x 2.80" length
- Tubes material & features: plated brass tubes designed for use with
either quick-connect or conventional fittings such as worm-drive clamps
(included with the complete kit);
- Plated brass nuts specially dimensioned to slightly overlap edges of chassis
opening for secure installation.
- Custom PCI bracket with slotted hole for electrical routing.
For additional case exhaust, we are adding an A.C. Ryan Blackfire4
UV Lighted Fans into the mix, courtesy of A.C. Ryan. While not necessary
this was just a personal preference on our part. We could of left the stock fan
in place, but this is just another mod we wanted to check out and A.C. Ryan provided us some
well-built fans for this project.

The matching A.C.
Ryan UV Lighted Fans we have will shed some light as to the over all
scheme we are trying to achieve. It just so happens the mounting hardware (nuts,
bolts, washers) for the RadBox fits the additional UV fan perfectly, as we will see
shortly!
Starting with a Cooler Master Stacker Case we yanked the factory
120mm fan assembly and replace it with a custom UV LED fan and Swiftech's RadBox.
We measured up the RadBox mounting bracket to our 120mm fan relief area. Right
away we decided to custom drill two holes into the mounting plate to facilitate
easy access to the side panel.
Adding the bracket was just a matter of calculating enough space
for the glass side panel to have enough clearance space to allow removal of the
side panel with no obstructions. However as mentioned above, we had to drill our
own holes with a Makita drill to accommodate the new attachment points.
Once we found the sweet spot to put our new attachment holes, we
attached the UV fan and the RadBox
bracket to the outer 120m port hole. We used the included screws to fasten the
fan and bracket to the chassis. (n, pronounced, Cha-See) Now that we
mounted the bracket, we tested the side panel for access. BAM! Perfect!
Now that the bracket was properly placed, we added the RadBox
and MCR120-FB Radiator to the bracket to get a birds eye view of
where we want our holes drilled in the chassis. We will get a 1/2" steel carbide
drill bit and use our Makita rechargeable and drill out two 1/2" holes for our
pass-thru connectors.
We took a short golf pencil and gently inserted into the 1/2"
press fittings and proceeded to draw on the back of the case as our drilling
template. We disassembled the RadBox to make the Pass-thru holes. We did not
want the metal drill shavings all over the equipment so mandatory disassembly
was performed.
Mission complete! With the holes drilled and filed down with a rat
tail file to debur the metal, we went ahead and tested for alignment, using a 3
inch piece of 1/2" vinyl tubing we tested the alignment. Good enough, while its
not perfect it's well within tolerances.
The alignment was almost perfect so no need to do any further
massaging of the pass-thru hole. Now the screws to lock the RadBox to the
mounting bracket will be installed and tightened to specs. (Hand tight with
medium force is all that’s needed) Now that the holes are tapped and prepped
(debured and edge finished) we pulled off the radiator and configured our
pass-thru tubes and 1/2" vinyl tubing to marry up to the 1/2" press fittings on
the radiator.
Taking a piece of three inch tubing we inserted the press fitting
inserts at one end and put the stainless steel Pass-thru fittings on the other
end and attached the assembly inside the 1/2" press fitting. The picture above
shows just how easy it is to configure a system this way. The worm clamps are
just another precaution as the tubing is sealed from inside the press connector,
but to make double sure the pass-thru side would not spring a leak, we worm
clamped them anyway.
As you can see in these shots, the pass-thru connectors are just
above our UV LED 120mm A.C.
Ryan fan. This configuration was done to future proof our rig for a SLI
setup and because we did not want the tubing configuration any other way. So
this is the part in the manual that states general installation guidelines might
change to do case configuration. So this is what we ran with and we like it!
This is the done deal! We re-checked all our fittings and clamps.
Tightened the entire RadBox assembly once more and added a cool like Mirrored Skull 120mm Fan Cover courtesy of CrazyPC and the miniature Skull Thumb Screw's are courtesy of Sunbeam.
Now that the radiator is properly installed and configured to our
specifications we can now go onto prepping the motherboard...
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