This is the Meanwell 320 watt dedicated power supply, this is going to be used to power the 226 watt thermoelectric cooler. The PSU comes with side rails as seen above to allow the Meanwell to be installed in a 5.25" drive bay, so this is what we will do.

Now that the side rails are mounted to the Meanwell PSU, I found a suitable location for the dedicated unit to run at the second drive bay slot from the top, the top will be occupied by the cases power controller - or more specifically the On/Off, reset buttons control panel.

I am now going to mount the relay switch and the AC power cords needed to supply power to the Meanwell power supply. This relay will turn the Meanwell power supply on and off with the system. Simply put, if you turn on the system the Meanwell power supply will turn on at the same time, as well as turn off when powering down the system.

I am going to stash the relay right underneath the 120 mm fan assembly. This will allow me to somewhat hide the AC cord and allow me to have enough room to install the 120 volt recepticle and relay switch in one convenient location (having kept in mind the location configuration as seen in the overview).

Fishing the AC cord up the corner of the chassis, I can hide the AC cord along the rear of the chassis were the side panel attaches to the case and I can guide the wires behind the chassis support braces and keep the cord out of site for the most part.

Now that I got the power cord fished through the chassis I can now make a connection to the Meanwell power supply. Each of the three wires are labeled for user convenience, making the installation a breeze. Now that the relay and AC cords are configured and installed in our rig I can focus on the external AC power feed that will send juice to the Meanwell power supply unit.

Using a pencil, I traced a crued outline of the 120V A/C socket to give me a better idea of where I need to drill a hole to allow this recepticle to be added to the chassis. Changing out the Makita for the cup drill, we can now drill the chassis to accept the recepticle. Actually I squeezed the trigger to find a dead battery...

After a 3 hour charge the Makita drill is ready for action. I installed the 1-1/4" Blu-Mol bi-metal cup drill and we can now proceed with drilling out our hole for the A/C socket.

Done deal, now that the holes are drilled and we have pilot holes for the base plate and fasteners we can now install the recepticle and finish routing the wires with a nice neat appearance.

The A/C socket, relay and the wiring harness for the Meanwell power supply are now connected and ready to go. We can now proceed onward with attaching power to the Thermo-Electric-Cooler. We will need additional length in wire leads to perform this task, so I will round up some wires and will have to splice in some extra length so it will connect to the Meanwell power supply.

Swiftech includes a nifty little splicer that allows you to attach and splice in longer power leads for those configurations that need the extra length like ours. We fished the wires to kind of have some uniform look and then clamped them to the receptor as shown above. Now we can add more wire which will connect to the Meanwell power supply.

Adding additional cable to complete the connection to the Meanwell power supply was fast and easy. We used the same 16 guage wiring as what the thermoelectric cooler uses to keep the resistants the same. I cut the desired length and now we can connect the TEC module to its power source - the Meanwell.

Now that the Meanwell is connected and properly configured for both AC input and DC output we can now start thinking about re-checking all the electrical connection. After we re-check all our electrical and water tubing circuits we can focus on adding coolant and priming the system. For best performance, use 95% distilled water, and 5% Swiftech brand “HydrX” corrosion inhibitor

By allocating slack in the tubing when designing the tube lengths, we are able to pull out the removable reservoir to facilitate charging the tube circuits with distilled water mixed with Swiftech's coolant in order to prime the system. What we will do now is bust out the trusty power supply tester and fire up the 12 volt rails so we can energize the pump with power and prime the system.

Now that the system is fully primed and fully operational, we will only power the pump and break in the system for 72 hours. At this time we will keep and eye on the tubing circuits and connections to make sure we are not leaking any coolant. For the most part this is a done deal, once we are confident the system is 100% we will load up the SLI video cards, the operating system and check out the performance of this kit.